Located on the south-eastern coast of Sri Lanka, where lush wilderness meets the Indian Ocean, Yala National Park is one of the country’s greatest natural treasures. Famous for having the highest density of leopards in the world, it’s also home to elephants, sloth bears, mugger crocodiles, water buffalo and an incredible array of birdlife. Whether you’re chasing the thrill of spotting a leopard or simply soaking up the beauty of the wild, a safari through Yala is an experience you won’t soon forget—and one that quickly became a highlight of our Sri Lankan adventure.
Booking the Safari
When it comes to booking a safari, you’re spoilt for choice. Sunrise, sunset, full-day adventures… there’s a safari to suit every wildlife enthusiast (and every sleep schedule). Entry to the park is around 15,000 LKR, with transport and guide fees on top, but the biggest difference to your experience isn’t the time of day—it’s who you book with.
If I can offer one piece of advice, it’s to skip the big booking platforms where possible. We learnt this the hard way after our transfer from Ella turned into a logistical game of “where’s our bus?” The booking company happily took our money, but apparently forgot the tiny detail of reserving us actual seats. Save yourself the stress and book directly with a trusted local guide instead.
I can however, recommend naturalist, Kumara. Knowledgeable, passionate, and somehow seemed to have a sixth sense for spotting wildlife hidden amongst the scrub. If you’re looking for someone reliable, you can reach him on WhatsApp at +94 77 007 1240.
The Safari
Once our transport dropped us at the safari office, we climbed aboard a modified Hilux with a tray conversion. Six elevated seats lined the back, offering the perfect vantage point for spotting wildlife (and giving us the distinct feeling we were about to star in our own nature documentary). As everyone settled in, we met the other guests joining our safari—including another Australian couple, proving once again that no matter where you travel in the world, there’s always another Aussie nearby.
Our two guides jumped into the cab, flashed us an enthusiastic thumbs-up, turned the key, and with that… our safari adventure officially began.
We rumbled through the sleepy streets of town before the bitumen gave way to red dirt. A sprawling lagoon stretched across the landscape while monkeys casually lounged along the roadside, watching us pass with the kind of confidence that suggested we were the attraction, not them. Before long, a large entrance gate came into view.
Yala National Park. Cue the excitement.
No sooner had we crossed through the gates than our guide excitedly pointed towards the edge of a lagoon where elegant white ibis wandered the shoreline and enormous mugger crocodiles basked on the muddy banks, jaws wide open in the afternoon heat.
Now, this should have been one of those magical, goosebump-inducing travel moments. Instead, Joe and I along with the Australian couple, couldn’t help exchanging amused glances. We’d travelled halfway across the world… to see an ibis and a crocodile.
For any fellow Australians reading this, you’ll understand the irony. Back home they’re hardly bucket-list wildlife. It was one of those wonderfully unexpected moments that had us quietly laughing to ourselves.
Thankfully, Yala wasn’t about to stop there.
As we continued deeper into the park, the scenery became increasingly wild. Dust swirled behind the convoy of safari vehicles as we wound our way through towering scrub and open plains. Then, just around a bend, traffic came to a halt.
An elephant stood calmly in the middle of the track.
Behind her, partially hidden amongst the trees, the rest of her herd watched from the shade. There’s something about elephants that photographs can never quite capture. Their sheer size, gentle movements and quiet intelligence leave you completely mesmerised. We could have happily sat there watching them for hours.
Not long afterwards, our guide suddenly grabbed the radio.
Rapid chatter filled the cab before his face lit up.
“Lucas is near! Lucas is near!”
Our driver wasted no time.
The Hilux lurched forward, bouncing over every rut and pothole the road had to offer. We clung to the handrails while laughing uncontrollably, having absolutely no idea who Lucas was—but judging by the speed we were travelling, he had to be someone pretty important.
Within minutes we understood.
Nearly forty safari vehicles had gathered nose to nose, all silently focused on one patch of long golden grass.
There he was.
A magnificent leopard lay stretched out in the sunshine, completely unfazed by the crowd admiring him from a respectful distance. His enormous paws, striking golden eyes and beautifully patterned coat were even more spectacular than we’d imagined. For several unforgettable minutes we watched as he lazily surveyed his kingdom before disappearing effortlessly back into the scrub.
Only afterwards did we discover just how lucky we’d been. Leopard sightings in Yala are never guaranteed, and “Lucas” wasn’t just any leopard—he was the oldest known leopard in the park, a true local celebrity and something of a national treasure.
The rest of the afternoon continued to deliver surprise after surprise.
Our guide somehow possessed superhero-level eyesight, effortlessly pointing out creatures the rest of us would have driven straight past. An iguana perfectly blended into the hollow of a tree. Raptors soared overhead searching for prey. Water buffalo wallowed in muddy pools while spotted deer grazed peacefully beneath the trees. Monkeys chased one another through the branches, providing plenty of comic relief along the way.
Every corner seemed to reveal another reminder that this was their home—we were simply fortunate enough to be passing through it.
Then, just when we thought the day couldn’t possibly get any better, every vehicle suddenly came to a stop.
Engines were switched off.
Silence.
The only sounds were birds calling in the distance and leaves rustling gently in the breeze.
Something was coming.
Out from the dense scrub, two piercing amber eyes appeared.
Slowly, a beautifully spotted leopard emerged from the bushes, calmly stepping onto the road only metres from our vehicle. Time seemed to stand still. He paused briefly, scanning his surroundings before breaking into an effortless sprint across the track and disappearing into the opposite tree line as quickly as he’d arrived.
For a few seconds, nobody spoke.
Instead, everyone simply looked at one another wearing the same expression of complete disbelief. Two leopard sightings in a single safari—something many visitors never experience—felt incredibly special.
As we made our way back towards the park entrance, the afternoon sun began sinking lower across the horizon. Warm golden light spilled across the lagoons, grasslands and towering trees, bathing the entire landscape in shades of amber and gold.
It was one of those rare travel moments where everything felt perfectly still.
Looking back, Yala National Park wasn’t simply one of the best safaris we’ve ever experienced—it was one of the most unforgettable wildlife encounters of our travels. Equal parts exhilarating, breathtaking and occasionally hilarious, it was an afternoon we’ll be talking about for many years to come.
Wander Mak 
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